Cambodia travel guide

The enticement of Angkor Wat is the country’s main draw and the sheer scale of the temples and their intricate carvings always impress. But there’s so much more to the Kingdom of Wonder to reward those who stay a bit longer: waterfalls and wildlife-filled treks in national parks, laid-back islands without the crowds and a whole country to explore in between.
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Phnom Penh is where most visitors come to learn more about Pol Pot’s infamous Khmer Rouge regime which oversaw a reign of terror, destruction and genocide that continues to shadow the country today. Make time for a visit to Tuol Sleng* (also known as S-21) and a tour of this former school that was converted into a prison for thousands of prisoners who were sadly tortured before being murdered. The audio guide is invaluable in explaining the scope and scale of the terror.
Thirty minutes away by tuk-tuk lie Phnom Penh’s Killing Fields*, where the majority of Tuol Sleng’s inmates were murdered and dumped in mass graves, and where the exhumed bones and skulls now occupy a somber memorial stupa.
There is much to celebrate in the capital, however, with the Royal Palace and National Museum highlighting the glory of days passed. You’ll find a wide variety of food in Phnom Penh*, with dishes ranging from Ethiopian to Mexican; there’s a thriving bar scene and the remarkable affordability of the drinks helps with motivation to try all of the cocktails on the menu.
A visit to the temples of Angkor Archaeological Park is pretty much compulsory — and for good reason. The Hindu and Buddhist temples provide a fascinating journey through centuries of religious splendour, architectural development and political upheavals. The bas-reliefs help to bring much of this to life, with vivid depictions of epic battle, regal ceremony and the everyday mundane.
If the weather gods are on your side, an early start to catch the purples, oranges and pinks of a Cambodian sunrise over the spires of Angkor Wat will be rewarded. You’ll also have a head start to beat the crowds who explore the root-enveloped Ta Prohm temple and the beguiling Bayon, with its giant stone faces.
A day trip to the hilltop waterfall at Phnom Kulen provides a break from temple fatigue and a chance to take in the country’s natural heritage; a visit to the floating villages and flooded forests (best enjoyed outside of the dry season) is a great way to experience the vast Tonle Sap lake*.
To the east, the hills of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri are home to elephant sanctuaries, forest waterfalls, diverse minority ethnic cultures, and from March to June, a blessed respite from the heat.
To the west, Koh Rong island is the perfect beach hideaway, while the Cardamom mountains in Koh Rong province provide genuine ecotourism explorations for the adventurous.
Best things to do in Cambodia and Vietnam
Cambodia has some of the best-value accommodation in southeast Asia, whether you want a good base from which to explore the islands or the chance to lap up some poolside luxury in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh.
Siem Reap has plenty of boutique hotels; Damrei* is one of the best and Viroth’s* or Shinta Mani* are worth splashing out for if the budget allows.
In the capital, most of the favourites, including Raffles*, Plantation* and Pavilion* are located centrally near the Royal Palace, with restaurants, sights and shops within easy reach.
On the islands, it’s often possible to just walk along the beach and find a room in whichever place looks most appealing, and however close to or far from the evening entertainment you wish to be. For those seeking extra calm, trek to Lazy Beach, or take the boat ride to Lonely Beach.
For a glimpse of rural Cambodian life it’s hard to beat the riverside town of Kratie with its old French buildings and packed local market; it’s one of the last places to glimpse the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphin. Spend the night on Koh Trong, in the middle of the Mekong, and the bustle of the mainland is instantly forgotten.
For a comfortable ecotourism stay, the forest-enclosed Cardamom Tented Camp is hard to beat. You’ll start your stay with a boat ride and it’s the perfect way to spot some of the country’s remaining wildlife, including gibbons and hornbills, while learning more about the conservation challenges Cambodia faces. The delicious chocolate lava cake served for dessert must also be mentioned.
For those travelling between Phnom Penh and the coastal towns of Kep, Kampot and Sihanoukville (gateway to the islands), the train is a great way to take in the Cambodian countryside. Ricefields, palm trees and limestone karst landscapes pass gently by, while the stations are architectural gems in their own right.
For a temple off the beaten path, venture to hilltop Preah Vihear*. It has twice been the subject of fierce ownership battles between Cambodia and Thailand in the past 100 years, and the views from here over Cambodia’s central plains are breathtaking — as is the beauty of the temple itself.
November to January, for the perfect mix of post-rainy season gushing waterfalls and verdant rice fields, and before the heat really kicks in.
Is Cambodia similar to Thailand?Cambodia has just as much variety as Thailand, with beaches, mountains, and temples, all in a more compact and approachable package. What it might lack in polish, it more than makes up for in charm and warmth, and with many fewer tourists and resort hotels.
How many days do I need in Cambodia?Two weeks is perfect to do justice to a visit to Cambodia. That’s enough time to tick off Angkor Wat and the surrounding smaller temples; enjoy forests, beaches and countryside; and trek to remote waterfalls or kayak on lazy coastal rivers. If you’re on a regional trip including other countries such as Thailand, Vietnam and Laos, three days in Cambodia will allow for the temples of Angkor and Phnom Penh’s museums, restaurants and nightlife.
CurrencyUS dollar in tourist areas, Cambodian Riel everywhere else. Credit cards are not universally accepted.
Inspired to visit Cambodia but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels from Mr and Mrs Smith* and Kayak*.
• Discover tours in Cambodia*
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